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Posted 20 hours ago

Citadel Shade Druchii Violet

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About this deal

When I painted this face, I tried to get a bit of a pale blue undertone to show a more pallid tone:

The saturation is better on the skin and some of the cloth at this stage. I just did more of the same from previous steps trying to darken the darkest areas and brighten the highlights. I also added a little red/Pink Horror on joints (knees, ankles, etc.) to create a more realistic look. Chaos Space Marine Rhino: The Chaos Space Marine Rhino is a staple of the Chaos Space Marine army, and its rugged, battle-worn appearance makes it an ideal candidate for Druchii Violet. Adding this color to the Rhino would give it a darker and more sinister appearance, perfect for a Chaos Space Marine army. Apply a dot of White to the top-left of the jewel (the part painted with Incubi Darkness). This should be a literal dot. Don’t worry if you mess up: Re-paint the area with Incubi Darkness and try again! Pendulin’s Shadowkeepers scheme can be found in a separate article – How to Paint Everything: Adeptus Custodes Shadowkeepers. Blue/Grey Cloth: – Base with Dark Reaper. – Wash with Coelia Greenshade. – Highlight with Dark Reaper. – Edge Highlight with Thunderhawk Blue.

SRM’s Method

Wash the reds with Nuln Oil to darken the robes down more than an Agrax or Carroburg Crimson wash would do. We want some deep rich colors to set off the pale white. On the Eradicators, I wanted to do something a little different with their melta rifles. The barrels are painted Brass Scorpion, then Sycorax Bronze, washed Seraphim Sepia, and then some Brass Scorpion re-layered at the business end of the barrel. This is a lazy way to simulate the heat-staining effect you can see on the studio models. I did a similar thing on the engines for the Outrider’s bikes. I’ll be honest, I wasn’t really a fan of Pylar Glacier when I first tried it. Unlike all of the other paints in the new range, it is extremely runny to the point where it only flows into the recesses and doesn’t tint the raised portions at all (Brimstone Horrors for example). There’s more to painting the Adeptus Custodes than just spraying your models down with Retributor Armor spray – though that’s certainly an option if you want to save time. We’ll look at several different methods for painting them here. Crab-Stuffed Mushroom’s Method Call of Chaos by Rob Sanders follows a Slaaneshi warlord through an encounter with the Stormcast Eternals.

Purple: Naggaroth Night and then Xereus Purple (I love, love Xereus Purple), washed Druchii Violet, and then re-layered Xereus on the higher parts and highlighted with, fittingly, Genestealer Purple. Time for the wings. Here I’m just going to get away with drybrushing. I do progressively lighter mixes of Celestra Gray and Xereus Purple here, which helps give me a much more muted tone on the wings.Cover all but the deepest recesses in Rhinox Hide / Vallejo Burnt Umber (whichever you have to hand). Again, I do this with an airbrush for time’s sake but you can do this with a brush quite easily. Layer Citadel Thousand Sons Blue and Citadel Baharroth Blue over the blue parts, with a final line of Citadel Blue Horror at select places (most raised edge of creases etc…). Use the same colours on the leather / incubi areas but skip the Blue Horror stage.

Drazhar is a beautiful model, maybe my favorite in the entire game, and was an absolute joy to paint as well. I won’t talk about him too extensively here, since I already wrote an article for Goonhammer about some techniques I used to paint him. If you are curious though, you can read that article here . Long story short, Apothecary White and Tesseract Glow are your friends. Drukhari tend to be an “antagonist faction” in 40k fiction; they certainly make good villains, after all – but have had the opportunity to take center stage a few times. Well well, once again you come to me to ask for advice on how to paint Drukhari? Oh don’t worry, prospective and current Archon’s of the Dark City, I will guide you. I hope you have your most hammy evil monologues at the ready and a glass of wine to swirl menacingly, you’ll need it. The first thing after assembly was to reduce the largest seams, especially on the chest. A dot of superglue was put down on a surface then a paperclip was used to transfer the glue to the seam. Liquid superglue will tend to seep into the seam and mostly fill it in. I did this anywhere I could easily see the gaps where two pieces came together. Some gaps may need a couple layers and could benefit from being sanded when the glue dries. The paint will also fill in the gaps a bit more. For the flesh of the arms on more mutated hybrids, where the purple fades into blue, wet blend the Genstealer Flesh Mix with Night Lords Blue. Alternatively, glaze Night Lords Blue down the arm, increasing in intensity towards the hands.Base the mini with Vallejo grey sand, wash it with reikland and agrax then drybrush with screaming skull For additional weathering on vehicles, apply a coat of matt varnish all over the model, then once dry, thin down Raw Umber oil paint with mineral spirit, wash into the recesses, then very carefully wipe away any excess with a cotton bud dipped in mineral spirit. You have to be extremely careful with this part, if you rub too excessively, you run the risk of wearing away the paint underneath.

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